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The Man Who Changed the Way We Eat

Craig Claiborne and the American Food Renaissance

Audiobook
1 of 1 copy available
1 of 1 copy available
In the 1950s, America was a land of overdone roast beef and canned green beans—a gastronomic wasteland. Most restaurants relied on frozen, second-rate ingredients and served bogus "Continental" cuisine. Authentic French, Italian, and Chinese foods were virtually unknown. There was no such thing as food criticism at the time, and no such thing as a restaurant critic. Cooking at home wasn't thought of as a source of pleasure. Guests didn't chat around the kitchen. Professional equipment and cookware were used only in restaurants. One man changed all that.
From the bestselling author of Alice Waters and Chez Panisse comes the first biography of the passionate gastronome and troubled genius who became the most powerful force in the history of American food—the founding father of the American food revolution. From his first day in 1957 as the food editor of the New York Times, Craig Claiborne was going to take his readers where they had never been before. Claiborne extolled the pleasures of exotic cuisines from all around the world, and with his inspiration, restaurants of every ethnicity blossomed. So many things we take for granted now were introduced to us by Claiborne—crème fraîche, arugula, balsamic vinegar, the Cuisinart, chef's knives, even the salad spinner.
He would give Julia Child her first major book review. He brought Paul Bocuse, the Troisgros brothers, Paul Prudhomme, and Jacques Pépin to national acclaim. His $4,000 dinner for two in Paris was a front-page story in the Times and scandalized the world. And while he defended the true French nouvelle cuisine against bastardization, he also reveled in a well-made stew or a good hot dog. He made home cooks into stars—Marcella Hazan, Madhur Jaffrey, Diana Kennedy, and many others. And Claiborne made dinner an event—whether dining out, delighting your friends, or simply cooking for your family. His own dinner parties were legendary.
Claiborne was the perfect Mississippi gentleman, but his inner life was one of conflict and self-doubt. Constrained by his position to mask his sexuality, he was imprisoned in solitude, never able to find a stable and lasting love. Through Thomas McNamee's painstaking research and eloquent storytelling, The Man Who Changed the Way We Eat unfolds a history that is largely unknown and also tells the full, deep story of a great man who until now has never been truly known at all.
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    • Library Journal

      Starred review from September 15, 2012

      When Craig Claiborne joined the New York Times as the food editor in 1957, no one could have predicted that this Mississippi gentleman would have such a broad-ranging and long-lasting impact on the gastronomic world, from introducing the salad spinner to Americans to putting critic into restaurant critic. McNamee's thoroughly researched work not only details Claiborne's sometimes troubled life but in a wider perspective provides an interesting history of how the food world has changed over the last 50 years. The prolific, award-winning Dick Hill brings a delightfully enthusiastic performance, drawing the listener into this delicious story. VERDICT This excellent biography is recommended for all foodies. ["Fans of culinary biographies will appreciate McNamee's extensive research and the intimate level of details, as well as the inside scoop on the New York City food scene," read the review of the Free Pr: S. & S. hc, LJ 5/15/12.--Ed.]--Donna Bachowski, Orange Cty. Lib. Syst., Orlando, FL

      Copyright 2012 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

    • Publisher's Weekly

      Starred review from August 27, 2012
      America in the 1950s was a country that put little focus on fine cooking in the home. In fact, there seemed to be little focus put on fine dining whatsoever, until the New York Times christened its first-ever food critic. Dick Hill narrates this riveting audio edition of the biography of that critic, Craig Claiborne, a man who guided and influenced cooks nationwide. The tone of Hill's reading is slightly snooty, like that of a gourmet stuck in a fast-food restaurant, studying each french fry for perfection as he attempts to educate the masses on how a civilized society should eat. For any other audio title, this tonal choice would sound arrogant and condescending, but in McNamee's work it enhances the author's prose and provides for flavorful listening. Hill is smart enough to firmly plant tongue-in-cheek and play to his audience, while never distancing himself from listeners. An enjoyable audiobook that will leave you hungry for more. A Free Press hardcover.

    • Publisher's Weekly

      April 23, 2012
      McNamee argues for Claiborne’s significance in connecting home cooking, fine dining, and classic and ethnic foods in the postwar period in this often light and uneven biography. Despite poor Mississippi Delta beginnings balanced by gracious Southern food and manners, the sensitive, misfit Claiborne (1920–2000) went on to college then served in the Navy during WWII. Navy intelligence service exposed him to broader sensory and sexual experiences. He later enrolled in a Swiss hospitality school and returned to New York, set on becoming the New York Times first male food editor. Freelancing led to public relations work whose perks included fine dining at leading gastronomic temples and that dream job at the Times. Claiborne’s long professional and personal relationship with Pierre Franey and the 1961 publication of his New York Times Cook Book launched him on a broader platform just ahead of Julia Child, eventually leading to his regular bylined restaurant reviews. Professional success sometimes countered the ups and downs of Claiborne’s private life, particularly those related to sexuality and alcohol.. Agent, David McCormick.

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